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    <title>Phorum 5</title>
    <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/index.php</link>
    <description><![CDATA[]]></description>
    <language>EN</language>
    <pubDate>Mon, 06 Feb 2012 00:22:54 -0500</pubDate>
    <lastBuildDate>Mon, 06 Feb 2012 00:22:54 -0500</lastBuildDate>
    <category>Phorum 5</category>
    <generator>Phorum 5.1.25</generator>
    <ttl>60</ttl>
    <item>
      <title>[Morse Nursery] Apple Antanovka</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,573,573#msg-573</link>
      <author>ridgeview72</author>
      <description><![CDATA[I live in extreme NE Iowa &amp; was wondering how the Apple Antanovka compares to your red bunches &amp; bunches crabapple in terms of whitetail attraction for late season whitetails here in extreme NE Iowa (December thru Mid January)?<br />
<br />
Last year I planted your red bunches &amp; bunches crabapple and was wondering if the Apple Antanovka would be a good compliment for attracting deer Dec thru Mid January here in NE Iowa?<br />
<br />
When would you expect apple drop here in NE Iowa for Apple Antanovka?<br />
<br />
Anything else you can tell me in terms of if Apple Antanovka is a good choice to plant on food plot borders &amp; the duration of the fruit drop would be appreciated. <br />
 <br />
Is it truly as easy to grow as you suggest compared to other apple's and/or crabapple's you offer for sale?<br />
  <br />
Thanks,<br />
<br />
Gerald]]></description>
      <category>Morse Nursery</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,573,573#msg-573</guid>
      <pubDate>Mon, 06 Feb 2012 00:22:54 -0500</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[Morse Nursery] Re: black chokcherries</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,570,572#msg-572</link>
      <author>cmorse</author>
      <description><![CDATA[I grow several plants that would make good wine and jellies. Apache Blackberry, Nanking Cherry, Black Chokeberry, Concord and Catawaba Grapes, Whitney and Chestnut Crabapple, Plum, Persimmon and Raspberry just to get you started.]]></description>
      <category>Morse Nursery</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,570,572#msg-572</guid>
      <pubDate>Sun, 05 Feb 2012 08:44:06 -0500</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[Morse Nursery] black chokcherries</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,570,570#msg-570</link>
      <author>destes53</author>
      <description><![CDATA[I live in the North Texas area. just south of Dallas. I am looking to plant some berry bushes that I can make jelly and wine out of. What type berry bushes will grow in this area. I was raised in South Dakota where I grewup on Chokcherry jelly. Is there a type of chkecherry that will grow in this area.<br />
Thank you]]></description>
      <category>Morse Nursery</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,570,570#msg-570</guid>
      <pubDate>Thu, 02 Feb 2012 22:28:33 -0500</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[Morse Nursery] Re: Which would be best?</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,107,555#msg-555</link>
      <author>cmorse</author>
      <description><![CDATA[Leopan,<br />
What's your question?]]></description>
      <category>Morse Nursery</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,107,555#msg-555</guid>
      <pubDate>Tue, 03 Jan 2012 10:09:18 -0500</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[Morse Nursery] Re: Which would be best?</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,107,554#msg-554</link>
      <author>leopan13</author>
      <description><![CDATA[HI_ALL___Test]]></description>
      <category>Morse Nursery</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,107,554#msg-554</guid>
      <pubDate>Tue, 03 Jan 2012 00:25:40 -0500</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[Morse Nursery] Re: Apple Tree Selection</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,176,530#msg-530</link>
      <author>cmorse</author>
      <description><![CDATA[Navara,<br />
This is were I try to help people, by answering questions of just about everything related to growing plants for wildlife. Thanks for visiting.]]></description>
      <category>Morse Nursery</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,176,530#msg-530</guid>
      <pubDate>Wed, 07 Dec 2011 20:23:01 -0500</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[Morse Nursery] Re: Apple Tree Selection</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,176,529#msg-529</link>
      <author>navara</author>
      <description><![CDATA[Hello everyone I am new to this forum.<br />
<br />
THANK_FOR_ALL]]></description>
      <category>Morse Nursery</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,176,529#msg-529</guid>
      <pubDate>Wed, 07 Dec 2011 09:46:08 -0500</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[Hybrid Oaks] Re: Let's talk Hybrid Oaks</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?5,50,346#msg-346</link>
      <author>cmorse</author>
      <description><![CDATA[We have had great results from customers planting in zone 8. We don't have that many customers in Zone 9 to give you a good history. We have had a few customers from Texas in zone 9 purchase hybrid oaks and I haven't had any negative feedback. Sorry, I wish I was more help to you. With the type of oaks that you have growing in your area I would think you would be alright. Best maybe to test plant a few before you make a big investment. Thank you for the question.]]></description>
      <category>Hybrid Oaks</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?5,50,346#msg-346</guid>
      <pubDate>Thu, 25 Aug 2011 19:10:45 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[Hybrid Oaks] Re: Let's talk Hybrid Oaks</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?5,50,325#msg-325</link>
      <author>slowfisher</author>
      <description><![CDATA[Hello, I am new here.  I see a lot of these hybrid oaks are being grown in Northern climates.  I am in Zone 9 in Eastern Texas.  I was wondering if any of these hybrids would do well here.  I would be plantin in clay/sand soil.  It has shown to grow sawtooths and white oaks, along with pin oaks and chinquipin oaks.  I was wondering if burgambel, bepps, or shuettes would grow here or not?]]></description>
      <category>Hybrid Oaks</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?5,50,325#msg-325</guid>
      <pubDate>Sun, 21 Aug 2011 14:40:58 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[Hybrid Oaks] Re: English Fastigate</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?5,277,298#msg-298</link>
      <author>LarryM</author>
      <description><![CDATA[Never mind.  I see they're back.  Thanks!]]></description>
      <category>Hybrid Oaks</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?5,277,298#msg-298</guid>
      <pubDate>Wed, 06 Jul 2011 14:14:46 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[Hybrid Oaks] English Fastigate</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?5,277,277#msg-277</link>
      <author>LarryM</author>
      <description><![CDATA[I've found english fastigate oaks to grow very well on my property in north WI, so I find it concerning that you no longer have them listed for sale.  Will they be available for next year?<br />
Thanks.<br />
<br />
Larry]]></description>
      <category>Hybrid Oaks</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?5,277,277#msg-277</guid>
      <pubDate>Thu, 30 Jun 2011 08:31:48 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[Hybrid Oaks] Re: Dwarf Chinquapin X Gambel Oak</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?5,121,208#msg-208</link>
      <author>cmorse</author>
      <description><![CDATA[Yes, some times they do lot's of work under ground before they send a hormonal message to grow wood. The very first dwarf Chinkipin oak I ever planted stayed 1-2' for two years then grew to 3'4' and had acorns the following season. Great little oaks to have for wildlife. Thanks for the update it's nice to see posts that everyone can read and learn from.]]></description>
      <category>Hybrid Oaks</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?5,121,208#msg-208</guid>
      <pubDate>Sat, 05 Mar 2011 21:04:42 -0500</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[Hybrid Oaks] Re: Dwarf Chinquapin X Gambel Oak</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?5,121,207#msg-207</link>
      <author>Craig</author>
      <description><![CDATA[I thought I'd give a follow up on how these did when planted.<br />
<br />
I&quot;m happy to tell you that 100% of the seedlings grew, better than I expected but very welcome.<br />
<br />
Planted in a N-S configuration with the Dwarf Chinquapins to the West in one row &amp; the Gambel oaks in a row parallel to them about 15' to the east.  <br />
<br />
It's my hope that closely planted like this that in another 6-7 years I'll be able to start looking for hybrid producing acorns.  <br />
<br />
Will give me another interesting thing to do/watch for in my little wildlife planting.<br />
<br />
Edit:<br />
<br />
It would appear that both of these oak types are of the kind to &quot;sleep or creep&quot; the first year.  The most any of them grew was perhaps 4&quot;.  However, several that got stuck in pots for a few weeks before I could plant them out show why I think.  I removed that little netting wrap from all these when planting, even in the pots.  When I went to plant out the ones in the pots, I was quite surprised to see a few roots that had reached the bottom or the sides near the bottom.  While the pots were not large, about 2 qt. size, that still is fast root growth for the time they had.  So I'd guess these little seedlings grew, but not where much of the growth can be seen. <br />
<br />
So for anyone who intends to give these a trial, don't expect much or any above ground growth in the first year.  <br />
<br />
But I do think they'll do far better this coming summer with the roots established now.]]></description>
      <category>Hybrid Oaks</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?5,121,207#msg-207</guid>
      <pubDate>Fri, 04 Mar 2011 13:09:54 -0500</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[Morse Nursery] Re: new customer questions</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,182,197#msg-197</link>
      <author>cmorse</author>
      <description><![CDATA[Walnut trees are usually bad to plant next to and remember other trees can shade out fruit or nut producing plants as they get older. Plant on the north or south side of large trees to prevent this. They make home owner fruit sprays that are all in one type sprays available and most garden centers, they are easy to apply just follow the instructions on the label.]]></description>
      <category>Morse Nursery</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,182,197#msg-197</guid>
      <pubDate>Sat, 12 Feb 2011 12:35:15 -0500</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[Morse Nursery] Re: new customer questions</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,182,196#msg-196</link>
      <author>cmorse</author>
      <description><![CDATA[Spacing on Gambel Oak would be 8' on center and 12-20' on centers for Crabapple trees.]]></description>
      <category>Morse Nursery</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,182,196#msg-196</guid>
      <pubDate>Sat, 12 Feb 2011 12:29:42 -0500</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[Morse Nursery] Re: new customer questions</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,182,195#msg-195</link>
      <author>cmorse</author>
      <description><![CDATA[I would not us a tube for bush type plants, I would use fencing right from the start.]]></description>
      <category>Morse Nursery</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,182,195#msg-195</guid>
      <pubDate>Sat, 12 Feb 2011 12:27:57 -0500</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[Morse Nursery] Re: new customer questions</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,182,189#msg-189</link>
      <author>jmmf</author>
      <description><![CDATA[I would like to plant some hybrid oaks and some fruit trees on my property but I want to make sure that I do not place them next to any other trees that would interfer with their growth.  I live in northern Michigan and am in a sandy loam soil with some slight hills and a mixture of hardwoods and pine trees.  Also what is a good spray for fruit trees?  How often do you spray them?  I have alot of questions but will ask a few at a time.  Thanks]]></description>
      <category>Morse Nursery</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,182,189#msg-189</guid>
      <pubDate>Fri, 04 Feb 2011 14:24:22 -0500</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[Morse Nursery] Re: new customer questions</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,182,187#msg-187</link>
      <author>DJJ</author>
      <description><![CDATA[how far should spacing between the Gambel and Gambel Gobbler for a screen?<br />
<br />
how far should spacing between the crabapple trees be for a screen?]]></description>
      <category>Morse Nursery</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,182,187#msg-187</guid>
      <pubDate>Sat, 29 Jan 2011 17:58:29 -0500</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[Morse Nursery] Re: new customer questions</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,182,186#msg-186</link>
      <author>DJJ</author>
      <description><![CDATA[can I start the Gambel and Gambel Gobbler strains in tree tubes?  I was planning on ordering 5 foot tree tubes.]]></description>
      <category>Morse Nursery</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,182,186#msg-186</guid>
      <pubDate>Sat, 29 Jan 2011 17:29:11 -0500</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[Morse Nursery] Re: new customer questions</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,182,185#msg-185</link>
      <author>cmorse</author>
      <description><![CDATA[I would use Dwarf Chinkipin, Gambel or Gambel gobbler strain instead of bur x gambel. I would also go with the &quot;crabapple collection&quot; which would include sweet snack to you get lot's of different size and ripening fruit. Crabapples can tollerate tubes better than grafted apple trees but I would only leave the crabs in the tubes until they come out the top of the tube, then I would switch over to 2&quot;x4&quot; welded wire fence 5' tall. Apple trees like air movement around them. I would recommend for your apple trees our &quot;Three times a charm&quot; which consist of eating type grafted trees. Honeycrisp, Wolfriver, Golden delicious, Red Free, Enterprise, Liberty, Jonafree are just a few of what we offer.]]></description>
      <category>Morse Nursery</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,182,185#msg-185</guid>
      <pubDate>Sat, 29 Jan 2011 14:22:22 -0500</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[Morse Nursery] Re: new customer questions</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,182,184#msg-184</link>
      <author>DJJ</author>
      <description><![CDATA[Thanks for the input Charlie,<br />
<br />
I'm planning a 300 ft. windbreak/border along are #2 from above.  I'm planning the first row (farthest north-running east to west) to be Blue Spruce.  The next 2 rows I would like to be apples and oaks.  I was thinking BurGamble Oak because of its shrub-like qualities.  What apples would you recommend?  I was looking at the Sweet Snack, it said this is one of only a few apples that can be put in tree tubes.  Do the tubes damage apples?  What others are OK in tubes?  Do you recommend cages around other apple trees?<br />
<br />
DJJ]]></description>
      <category>Morse Nursery</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,182,184#msg-184</guid>
      <pubDate>Sun, 23 Jan 2011 14:33:47 -0500</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[Morse Nursery] Re: new customer questions</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,182,183#msg-183</link>
      <author>cmorse</author>
      <description><![CDATA[Djj,<br />
Well first of all most all fruit or nut producing trees and shrubs will require a minimum of 8 hours. The only shrub I grow that will tolerate full shade is spicebush. Having said this your area number 4 will not grow anything other than spicebush. Area number 3 will not support any apple trees.  Oaks I would recommend in the sunny area would be Swamp White, Ware, Schuettes and Bodacious Bur. Shrubs would be Redosier, elderberry, winterberry, silky and flowering dogwoods. Area number 2 will grow many if not all of what we grow if you prep your soil with amendments like peat to hold moisture. Area 1 will grow anything also but you might consider adding some peat to increase aeration and drainage for the apple trees.<br />
Thanks for the questions,<br />
Charlie]]></description>
      <category>Morse Nursery</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,182,183#msg-183</guid>
      <pubDate>Mon, 17 Jan 2011 12:22:20 -0500</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[Morse Nursery] new customer questions</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,182,182#msg-182</link>
      <author>DJJ</author>
      <description><![CDATA[I have 4 areas on my property I would like to plant on this spring.  My goal is to create fall and winter food and cover for deer and turkey. I'm in Saginaw County, MI (PLANT HARDINESS ZONE 5b -10F TO -15F) Property is surrounded by farmland.<br />
<br />
1.  2 ACRES OLD PASTURE, NOW TALLER FIELD GRASS,VERY SANDY SOIL (PELLA SILT LOAM/LONDO LOAM), FULL SUN<br />
<br />
What apples, oaks, bushes, shrubs, or berries would you recommend here?<br />
<br />
2.  1 ACRE OLD PASTURE PLANTED AS FOOD PLOT LAST YEAR: ALFALFA, CLOVER, CHICORY, AND TURNIPS (PELLA SILT LOAM/SANILAC VERY FINE SANDY LOAM) PART SUN PART SHADE<br />
<br />
What apples, oaks, bushes, shrubs, or berries would you recommend here for sunny and shady areas?<br />
<br />
3.  4 ACRES BAD RIVER BOTTOM, FLOODS IN SPRING, STAYS WET, LOTS OF DEAD ASH (SOIL Sloan-Ceresco Complex (FF)) I plan on planting White Cedar and Black Spruce here for cover.<br />
<br />
What apples, oaks, bushes, shrubs, or berries would you recommend here for sunny and shady areas?<br />
<br />
4.  3 ACRES LARGER OPEN HARDWOODS. (SOIL Sloan-Ceresco Complex (FF)). ALL SHADE<br />
<br />
What apples, oaks, bushes, shrubs, or berries would you recommend here for shady areas?]]></description>
      <category>Morse Nursery</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,182,182#msg-182</guid>
      <pubDate>Wed, 12 Jan 2011 19:29:31 -0500</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[Morse Nursery] Re: Apple Tree Selection</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,176,179#msg-179</link>
      <author>cmorse</author>
      <description><![CDATA[Larry,<br />
You need a very aggressive root system for clay soils. All dwarf and some semi-dwarf apple trees have root systems that were bred intentionally to have poor root systems. This is how they can control the size of the apple tree. These weak root systems have fragile/brittle roots that would not be able to penetrate clay soil. We use mostly B-118 which is an improvement from the old M-111, these root systems are used because they grow large trees that produce hundreds of pounds of apples and are not fussy about soil types including clay. You mention sometimes wet after a heavy rain, as long as it drains (no standing water) you should be OK. If it does not drain consider planting the fruit trees on mounds. I have done this in swamps with good success! Thanks for the questions Larry.]]></description>
      <category>Morse Nursery</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,176,179#msg-179</guid>
      <pubDate>Tue, 09 Nov 2010 17:04:51 -0500</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[Morse Nursery] Apple Tree Selection</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,176,176#msg-176</link>
      <author>LarryM</author>
      <description><![CDATA[Here's a tough one.  Which of your apple trees (or other fruit trees) would grow best in clay (northern WI).?  I can't guarantee they wouldn't occasionally be wet after a heavy rain either.  Any suggestions?<br />
Thanks.  <br />
<br />
Larry]]></description>
      <category>Morse Nursery</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,176,176#msg-176</guid>
      <pubDate>Mon, 08 Nov 2010 20:37:13 -0500</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[Hybrid Oaks] Re: Let's talk Hybrid Oaks</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?5,50,171#msg-171</link>
      <author>cmorse</author>
      <description><![CDATA[Larry,<br />
I am very happy your trees are doing well and thanks for the feedback. Many times newly planted oaks will not grow above ground the first year. It seems some choose to not send the hormonal message to the tree that's above ground to grow and instead spends it's time getting happy underground. Stress or genetics can cause this. Thanks Larry as this information’s is helpful to others I am sure.]]></description>
      <category>Hybrid Oaks</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?5,50,171#msg-171</guid>
      <pubDate>Thu, 04 Nov 2010 09:15:54 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[Hybrid Oaks] Re: Let's talk Hybrid Oaks</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?5,50,147#msg-147</link>
      <author>LarryM</author>
      <description><![CDATA[Planted some Sergeants, Bebbs and Fastigate oaks in the spring of 09 in predominantly clay soil.  They didn't grow much (all in tree tubes) and made me kind of grumpy (then).  However, they all survived the winter and spent a lot of this year wet - including standing water for awhile - as my part of northern WI seemed to get rain all summer.<br />
They are all still alive and I now have several growing out the top of their 5 foot tree tubes with the rest of varying heights.  These are really great trees!  Thank you Charlie!]]></description>
      <category>Hybrid Oaks</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?5,50,147#msg-147</guid>
      <pubDate>Wed, 29 Sep 2010 14:39:40 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[Morse Nursery] Re: Apple Tree Care</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,72,123#msg-123</link>
      <author>cmorse</author>
      <description><![CDATA[Good job Gerald on successfully starting up your deer apple orchard. Yes, an apple tree can have to many branches. You can prune off excess branches leaving about a 4&quot; spacing or so. Some trees will have STRONG central leaders and it sounds like you have a couple of these. It's ok to let them go to tops but it's also ok to cut the leader, this will quite the leader and encourage branching. Getting the trees out of the tubes and into fencing for good air movement around your apple trees will help keep away molds, mildew and fugal growth so I like that idea. I don't like the drain tile idea however, I would prefer to use Hardware cloth with about 1/4&quot; mesh. You could cut the tree tube down also. Drain tile doesn’t allow sunlight in and the dark damp environment grows mold, mildew and fungus easily. There is a white colored thin walled drainpipe that come of my customers have used and they report good results so maybe that would be an option. Thank you for the questions and keep up the good work Gerald.]]></description>
      <category>Morse Nursery</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,72,123#msg-123</guid>
      <pubDate>Wed, 21 Jul 2010 14:56:08 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[Morse Nursery] Re: Apple Tree Care</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,72,122#msg-122</link>
      <author>ridgeview72</author>
      <description><![CDATA[Antique Apple Trees I planted spring 2009 are doing great!  Planted 18 with only 2 casualties thus far (suspect a mole ate one of them off).  Of the 16 remaining trees I expect all but one to have grown out of 5ft tree shelters by fall.  A couple of the trees that grew out of shelters the first year that the deer munched on before I managed to get them fenced out have lots of branches...is it possible for the trees to branch out too much?<br />
<br />
A couple of the trees appear thus far to have a single stem...will I need to cut top of stem off this winter to encourage it to begin branching out or should I leave the single stem alone.<br />
<br />
I'm not at all familiar to any sort of pruning basics and/or how to properly care for apple trees.  Just beginning to get into planting apple trees for wildlife (deer) &amp; have lots to learn.  Any pointers on tree care you can give me would be a great help.<br />
<br />
Tree care taken thus far was to plant seedlings in tree shelters.  Have begun the process of creating a square fence using snow fencing around trees that have grown out of tree shelters.  Plan on leaving the tree shelters on trees for as long as possible to help protect from rodents, rabbits &amp; deer.  When trees begin to fill out the shelters I plan to remove the shelters at that time &amp; replace with some sort of vented plastic drainage tile.<br />
<br />
Have also began fertilizing the trees with 10-10-10 per your recommendations from a previous post.<br />
<br />
Thanks,<br />
<br />
Gerald]]></description>
      <category>Morse Nursery</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,72,122#msg-122</guid>
      <pubDate>Wed, 14 Jul 2010 15:29:39 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[Hybrid Oaks] Dwarf Chinquapin X Gambel Oak</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?5,121,121#msg-121</link>
      <author>Craig</author>
      <description><![CDATA[Hi Charlie,<br />
<br />
I planted those Dwarf Chinquapin &amp; Gambel Oaks I ordered this spring in a 20' X 20' two row planting.  <br />
<br />
In a few years when both get to bearing well I'm hopeful we can get some acorns that will be a cross of the two shrub Oak types.  <br />
<br />
In order to try to improve the odds of getting such a hybrid would it help to try to pick all the pollen stems of of one of the two types?  If yes would it be better to do this to one type over the other or won't it matter?]]></description>
      <category>Hybrid Oaks</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?5,121,121#msg-121</guid>
      <pubDate>Thu, 27 May 2010 00:51:13 -0400</pubDate>
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