http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/index.php EN Sun, 04 May 2008 13:01:54 -0700 Sun, 04 May 2008 13:01:54 -0700 Phorum 5 Phorum 5.1.25 60 http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?5,50,60#msg-60 cmorse Hybrid Oaks http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?5,50,60#msg-60 Sun, 04 May 2008 13:01:54 -0700 http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?5,50,59#msg-59 cmorse -------------------------------------------------------
> So if I order seedlings and I want to keep my
> containers above ground, I should first plant them
> in 3 or 5 gallon rootmaker for about a year,(or
> until full), and then move up to 15 gallon above
> ground roottrappers until ready for final
> planting. Does this sounds right?
>
> I am trying to raise a forest of 100-200 trees in
> my backyard and then transplant them at 5-10' onto
> my hunting property in 2-3 years. Since I am doing
> 100+ trees, I would rather not dig 100+ holes in
> my yard. If above ground containers (either
> softsided or oversized plastic rootmakers) work
> just as well as knitted bags, I would rather do it
> like that. What do you think? Thanks.
Yes, that would be OK but above ground containers are hard to manage. I would put the bag inside a concrete block as they will blow over in the wind as they get bigger.]]> Hybrid Oaks http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?5,50,59#msg-59 Sun, 04 May 2008 12:58:06 -0700 http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?5,50,58#msg-58 jackdalyhhi Hybrid Oaks http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?5,50,58#msg-58 Sun, 04 May 2008 06:41:25 -0700 http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?5,50,57#msg-57 jackdalyhhi
I am trying to raise a forest of 100-200 trees in my backyard and then transplant them at 5-10' onto my hunting property in 2-3 years. Since I am doing 100+ trees, I would rather not dig 100+ holes in my yard. If above ground containers (either softsided or oversized plastic rootmakers) work just as well as knitted bags, I would rather do it like that. What do you think? Thanks.]]> Hybrid Oaks http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?5,50,57#msg-57 Sun, 04 May 2008 06:37:19 -0700 http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?5,50,56#msg-56 cmorse Hybrid Oaks http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?5,50,56#msg-56 Sat, 03 May 2008 16:19:03 -0700 http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?5,50,55#msg-55 cmorse Hybrid Oaks http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?5,50,55#msg-55 Sat, 03 May 2008 16:16:13 -0700 http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?5,50,54#msg-54 jackdalyhhi Hybrid Oaks http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?5,50,54#msg-54 Tue, 29 Apr 2008 13:27:27 -0700 http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?5,50,53#msg-53 jackdalyhhi Hybrid Oaks http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?5,50,53#msg-53 Tue, 29 Apr 2008 13:16:48 -0700 http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,52,52#msg-52 cmorse
PS We were able to salvage some of the old post from the old forum and they can be found under the Old Morse Nursery Forum, check them out as we have made them active and still can be responded to.]]> Morse Nursery http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,52,52#msg-52 Sun, 06 Apr 2008 07:42:56 -0700 http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?4,51,51#msg-51 cmorse Containerized Plants http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?4,51,51#msg-51 Sun, 30 Mar 2008 18:34:04 -0700 http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?5,50,50#msg-50 cmorse Hybrid Oaks http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?5,50,50#msg-50 Sun, 30 Mar 2008 18:31:44 -0700 http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?6,48,49#msg-49 cmorse I would order a Knitted Root constrictor container size #8 minimum. You can order them at www.rootmaker.com or if you are only doing a small number of seedlings I would sell you some of mine that I use for growing oaks on to a larger size. These containers are put in the ground and are much more forgiving than above ground containers, plus no circling roots.]]> OldMorseNursery Forum http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?6,48,49#msg-49 Thu, 27 Mar 2008 18:36:12 -0700 http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?6,48,48#msg-48 Rich OldMorseNursery Forum http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?6,48,48#msg-48 Sat, 15 Mar 2008 18:15:31 -0700 http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,47,47#msg-47 cmorse Charlie Morse
President
Morse Nursery]]> Morse Nursery http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,47,47#msg-47 Tue, 05 Feb 2008 16:45:11 -0800 http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?6,46,46#msg-46 OldMorseNursery
RESPONSE:
By adding visual screens to your food plots you draw bucks out of the safety of the woods and make them personally bump your plots. This will be your best chance of drawing out a trophy buck so you get an opportunity to see one of these elusive big game animals. We like to build our screens from thicket forming shrubs that produce food. Morse Nursery thicket Plum, and crabapple are some of our favorites.

RESPONSE:
I really like the idea about planting crabapples and bushes around my foodplots to make them more secluded. Could you tell me about how tall the crabapples and the bushes you recomend for this will grow. Also what spacing would you use between them, would you alternate trees and bushes. I have a lot of deer on my property, what would you advise for protection, tree tubes, fencing or a mix of both.

RESPONSE:
Yes, All of the above Alan. There is usually more than one right answer in planting borders. Single rows with 3' on centers, double rows staggered 6' on centers, or triple rows staggered 8' on centers with trees in your center row. I like to plant in irregular rows making sure that a Whitetail buck can't look down these rows for more than 50'. This makes a buck move and that’s who plants can make you a better hunter. :-)

RESPONSE:
Have deceided on : 1. Thicket Plum 2. Thicket Crabapple 3. Apache BlackBerry 4. Alpine Currant 5. Arrowwood Viburum 6. BurGramble Oak 7. Red & Yellow Bunches of Crabapples.

Now about protecting these shrubs and trees. You say the shrubs grow better when browsed on. Did you mean you plant them with no protection or put them in a tube for a couple of seasons to get them started?

As far as the trees would you recommend fencing or tree tubes?

Here in WestBranch where I'm planting these when I use tree tubes I get a lot of Winter kill. It gets depressing to see three foot of Gobbler Oak come out of the tube during the year and in the Spring it's dead. I've been told to drill holes in the tubes so in the Fall the tree knows its Fall and shuts down, I know the tubes are easier to use but I've had much better luck by removing the tube just before the or shortly after the tree grows out of the tube and putting a fence around the tree. Am I doing something wrong with the tubes

RESPONSE:
Now about protecting these shrubs and trees. You say the shrubs grow better when browsed on. Did you mean you plant them with no protection or put them in a tube for a couple of seasons to get them started?

"As far as the trees would you recommend fencing or tree tubes?

Here in WestBranch where I'm planting these when I use tree tubes I get a lot of Winter kill. It gets depressing to see three foot of Gobbler Oak come out of the tube during the year and in the Spring it's dead. I've been told to drill holes in the tubes so in the Fall the tree knows its Fall and shuts down, I know the tubes are easier to use but I've had much better luck by removing the tube just before the or shortly after the tree grows out of the tube and putting a fence around the tree. Am I doing something wrong with the tubes "

Sorry for the late response I didn't see your comments until now. The die back is not the fault of your tubes, it's the genitics of your sawtooth gobblers. The original seed source is from to warm of a climate and are not cold hardy. Other possibilities are unvented tubes or fertilizing to late into the summer and the trees are having trouble hardening off but I suspect the seed source is the problem. Shrubs that tolerate browse generally don't need tubes, however it is possible that deer could pull the plant out of the ground when first planted. After a month or so the plant will be well rooted. I wouldn't worry about it myself.]]> OldMorseNursery Forum http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?6,46,46#msg-46 Tue, 05 Feb 2008 14:07:07 -0800 http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?6,45,45#msg-45 OldMorseNursery
Another great cross that benefits by having genes from two sets of parents are the Chestnut Oak x White Oak (Sauls Oak). Chestnut Oak acorns are larger than White Oaks and not as sweet because of higher tannins found in the chestnut oak acorns, however much of this bitter taste is sweetened with the White Oak genes. The benefits of this resulting hybrid is big sweet acorns and much higher yields compared to just that of the White Oak.

Hybrid Oaks are worth the extra cost in my opinion if you’re trying to grow hard mast trees for improving wildlife habitat if your goal is to see results sooner!

RESPONSE:
If you mix in a few hybrid oaks into a natural forest will it help / hurt / effect the native trees any?

RESPONSE:
Chris, this is an excellent question. First of all many hybrid Oaks are crosses from our native Oaks and occur naturally already. These Hybrids are simply natural selection at it's best. Plants evolve like animals and only the fittest survive to move forward and improve the species. It is well documented that the Hybrid is an improved tree with superior characteristics to either participating parents. In the case of Oaks that are not, native to America such as English Oak's that cross with our natives producing Hybrids is debated. Some purest say it pollutes our native gene pool while others like myself feel that the diversification of our Native oaks can only improve and protect the species. Some of the European English oaks are over 1,000 years old with reliable acorn production. These traits are very beneficial and passed on to seedlings, though their genes. If this is pollution, it's a good kind of pollution in my book and a hedge against the next bug that comes along!]]> OldMorseNursery Forum http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?6,45,45#msg-45 Tue, 05 Feb 2008 14:06:09 -0800 http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?6,44,44#msg-44 OldMorseNursery
RESPONSE:
"Where" you buy your trees and the right questions for the nursery are more important than the Oak's cold hardy range as indicated by USDA zones. You might purchase an Oak with zone ratings of 4-8, 4 being it's most northern "Cold" rating. This zone would on the surface appear to be hardy enough for you to plant in NY, however if the nursery is growing the seedlings from seed collected from a southern zone 8 Oak, you will more than likely experience winter dieback or death.

When purchasing any tree from any nursery ask them where they collected or purchased their seed. Do not tell them where you’re from or where you are going to plant them, "This is not needed at this time" and only serves to educate a possible unethical business to tell you what you want to here. Not knowing where you’re from or where you’re going to plant the trees will help you get a straight answer. The tree you’re looking for must be grown from seed collected from a cold hardy source. Seed collected from healthy cold hardy trees have genetically evolved their cold hardiness over thousands of years and they pass this trait on to the resulting seedlings. This is critical in your selection process and will at least eliminate one possibility of why you’re having trouble growing Oaks when there are others growing on property right next to yours.

RESPONSE:]]> OldMorseNursery Forum http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?6,44,44#msg-44 Tue, 05 Feb 2008 14:05:29 -0800 http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?6,43,43#msg-43 OldMorseNursery OldMorseNursery Forum http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?6,43,43#msg-43 Tue, 05 Feb 2008 14:04:46 -0800 http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?6,42,42#msg-42 OldMorseNursery
RESPONSE:
Here are some simple tips to perk up those apple trees. It's January and anytime it's cold enough the insects that carry diseases are not spreading problems from tree to tree is a great time to trim and prune. First trim all the dead branches this can be done even in the summer. Second look at the tree and look for branches growing inward toward the center and remove those. Third look for crossing or rubbing branches and prune the less healthy of the two rubbing each other. Fourth look for branches growing straight up or down off of your main limbs. Branches growing straight up produce poor apples due to the energy to push nutrients uphill and branches growing down under a major limb is shaded out and will produce poor apples. Remove these up and down branches. This process will open up your tree considerably allowing sunlight “Apple Trees Love Sunlight” to reach the interior of the tree. Lastly fertilize your Apple tree in the spring only with just nitrogen. Use ¼ pound of actually nitrogen for every year the tree is old up to a maximum of 2 pounds. Your old trees will more than likely take the 2 pound limit. If you use urea 46-0-0 the actual nitrogen in one pound of urea is only 46%. You would need a little more than four pounds of 46-0-0 to get the two pounds of actual nitrogen needed with trees 8 years or older.

RESPONSE:
Charlie, thanks for the advise. We will definately give it a try.]]> OldMorseNursery Forum http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?6,42,42#msg-42 Tue, 05 Feb 2008 14:04:04 -0800 http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?6,41,41#msg-41 OldMorseNursery
RESPONSE:
I'm not very knowledgeable about Buttonbush other than I have some growing around some ponds on a property I manage. It’s well suited and seems to flourish in wet sites even underwater conditions. Looks like it might be a cover only type of a plant, as I have seen no sign of browsing even though many of the sumacs are rubbed heavily nearby. I don’t know for sure but from what I see it’s a low value browse plant. I’ve thought of propagating this plant for tough wet sites that you can’t get much else to grow in. I would think this would make for a formidable tangle where Whitetails would feel safe.]]> OldMorseNursery Forum http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?6,41,41#msg-41 Tue, 05 Feb 2008 14:03:29 -0800 http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?6,40,40#msg-40 OldMorseNursery OldMorseNursery Forum http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?6,40,40#msg-40 Tue, 05 Feb 2008 14:02:58 -0800 http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?6,39,39#msg-39 OldMorseNursery
RESPONSE:
Remove the tree from the container by usually cutting the bag and peeling the bag off the roots. Plant the tree at the same depth as it was in the container. Be careful that you don't plant any tree to deep as to bury the bark. Soil can rot this bark and cause the same effect as mice or rabbits eating the bark, "girdling" which if always fatal. Planting the tree to high out of the ground is easy to avoid as you can see the roots. Make sure the roots are underground. Over water the tree when planting as this will settle the soil and remove all air pockets.]]> OldMorseNursery Forum http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?6,39,39#msg-39 Tue, 05 Feb 2008 14:02:38 -0800 http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?6,38,38#msg-38 OldMorseNursery
RESPONSE:
When choosing oaks there are two general rules of thumb to use that make it easy to decide.

1. Choose Oaks that are right for your planting location. Wet or dry? Wetland species or Swamp oaks will do well on dry soils or wet soils but thrive in wetter conditions. This however is not the case with other upland or dry species of oaks and they will die if planted in a wet location. Any Oak that has a Swamp oak description like Swamp White Oak x Bur Oak a hybrid called Schuette’s Oak is your best choice for wet locations. These "Swamp Oak types" carry the genes that allow the Roots to go very long periods under water without oxygen, without dying.

2. Plant as many different species as you can for diversity. Falling in love with "One" favorite oak can prove disastrous if some bug comes along 25 years from now and falls in love with it too! Monoculture is out and diversity is in.]]> OldMorseNursery Forum http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?6,38,38#msg-38 Tue, 05 Feb 2008 14:02:13 -0800 http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?6,37,37#msg-37 OldMorseNursery
If so, I might dig up the boxwoods and sell them. Does anyone have any experience doing this? Any recommendations on who would be best to contact (landscape company, landscape architect, nursery)? What are they worth?

Thanks for your feedback.

ward33@msn.com

RESPONSE:
We don't sell Boxwoods, we don't offer forestry services or advice. Additionally Boxwood has little or no wildlife value. We grow and specialize in wildlife benifiting trees and shrubs. If you would ever has a question in the future relating to the plants we grow I would be happy to try to answer them for you but please relevent questions only! Thanks for thinking of us though.]]> OldMorseNursery Forum http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?6,37,37#msg-37 Tue, 05 Feb 2008 14:01:46 -0800 http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?6,36,36#msg-36 OldMorseNursery
RESPONSE:
Fall really is the best time to plant deciduous (lose their leaves) trees. They get the benefits of two favorable establishment seasons before any temperature demands are placed on the plant.]]> OldMorseNursery Forum http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?6,36,36#msg-36 Tue, 05 Feb 2008 14:01:20 -0800 http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?6,35,35#msg-35 OldMorseNursery
I was able to water once a week for the first 3 weeks. After that not very much. There

was a span of almost 3 weeks without rain. I planted 50 trees ,and others planted the

other 55 trees. As of Labor Day we have not lost one tree. Some have more growth than others, but none have died. There was 3 that looked dead, but they all have new leaves

and look good.

Your trees are more hardy than I could have hoped for. I assume it is your root system

development.

Thanks

Dan kulongowski

RESPONSE:
Thanks Dan, I'm glad to hear about your success. Our air pruning or trapping of the roots process, helps produce more lateral roots than the plant would do naturally on it's own. These additional roots are the life lines to your newly planted trees and can make the difference in surviving or not! These additional roots will make a difference over the life of the trees you planted as well, after all these additional roots are what will supply your trees the nutrients and moisture needed to be healthy and grow.]]> OldMorseNursery Forum http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?6,35,35#msg-35 Tue, 05 Feb 2008 14:00:59 -0800 http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?6,34,34#msg-34 OldMorseNursery
RESPONSE:
James,
Sorry for the late response. All of our hybrid oaks would do well in your state. Oaks will have the necessary root strength to penetrate the clay soil under your light sandy topsoil. There are soil amendments that I would recommend from Plant health care. Some of these amendments will help the fertility of your soil by the formation of beneficial bacteria colonies of which some have nitrogen fixing properties. All of our apple and pear trees would benefit if you were able to break up some of the underlying clay with a shank and then add some soil amendments. I can help you acquire some of these products as we purchase them by the pallet load.]]> OldMorseNursery Forum http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?6,34,34#msg-34 Tue, 05 Feb 2008 14:00:32 -0800 http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?6,33,33#msg-33 OldMorseNursery
2. Given soil type mentioned above how long before we would see production, as I am not getting any younger.

Thanks!

RESPONSE:
Any hybrid with English Oak as one of the parents will be the best choice for your soils. Sargent #5 and #7, Bimundors, BurEnglish and English Wide would be my choice. Acorn production will begin between 4-8 years from seed is my best guess. Purchasing an older tree will naturally get you acorn production sooner.]]> OldMorseNursery Forum http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?6,33,33#msg-33 Tue, 05 Feb 2008 14:00:02 -0800 http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?6,32,32#msg-32 OldMorseNursery
RESPONSE:
Viburnum Arrowwood, Nannyberry and Thicket Plum would be good shrubs. Sawtooth Oak, Sargent Oak, Callery Pear would be good trees for your light soil type.

Thanks for the question Ronald!]]> OldMorseNursery Forum http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?6,32,32#msg-32 Tue, 05 Feb 2008 13:59:37 -0800 http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?6,31,31#msg-31 OldMorseNursery
Your web site and focus on wildlife plantings is great. I have been through it in detail. I have 12 food plots consisting of 20 acres of clover that I would like to plant some screens/bedding cover around.

Conditions: My farm is located in a ZONE-6 climate and has two types of soil: 1.) heavy clay on ridgetops with Ph 6.6-7.0 range; 2.) well drained loamy soil on hill sides near river bottoms with Ph in 5.9 range. All of this that is not planted in clover is covered with Kentucky 31 Fescue. Note: Two years ago I tried to plant several hundred hardwoods on the edges the plots and allow this area to grow up for cover. My planting failed. I suspect the cause of the failure was a combination of fescue competition, drought that summer and animal browsing.

I like the idea of fruit bearing cover and shrubs that you describe on your web site. I also noticed that the English Oak you sell "thrives in heavy clay". I think I need plantings that will survive and prosper in punishing conditions.

Questions: 1.) Which of your products would you recommend that I plant for cover & food based on the above conditions? 2.) How can I plant and get the planting to survive in the fescue? 3.) Can I use plastic sheets to control fescue competition until the shrubs get established?

Thank you in advance for your help.

Charlie Nieman

RESPONSE:
Charlie,

I suspect the fescue is the problem. Without getting to deep into plant biology, grasses are able to react quicker to moisture than shrub or trees. They steal the moisture and nutrients away from the trees and shrubs before they can react at the root level. Weed and moisture control is critical the first 2 years of establishment for success! I would not recommend plastic sheets as they can limit the available water and heat the ground to temperatures that will damage roots near the surface. Use mulch or wood chips, as this will keep the soil moist, cool and free from weeds or grass.
This mulch will break down over time and supply nutrients to the trees and shrubs. Losing them to browse is a different problem to solve. Using tree tubes or plants that like being chewed on can solve this. Some plants when eaten actually are stimulated to grow more sprouts eventually growing to the size shrub need for you screens. Your river bottom pH is a little low but if you are liming for the food plots, planting shrubs near the edges will benefit from the higher pH. I would also consider soil amendments such as Tree Saver from Plant health Care. http://www.planthealthcare.com/specs/PlantSaver.pdf

Recommended plants would be Apache Blackberry, Highbush Cranberry, Arrow wood, Nannyberry, mulberry, thicket crabapple, persimmon, silky dogwood, serviceberry, Bur Oak, Bur x gamble, Bur x English, English, Hazelnut, None grafted apple trees (Antique/Heritage collection and thicket plum. This isn't everything but should keep you busy.
Thanks for the questions Charlie as this helps many others with similar problems as yours. The more successful people are with plantings the more they plant and that's good for business! :-)

RESPONSE:
Shredded newspaper is also a great mulch, breaks down in time and disappears. I use strips in my flower beds with leaf compost on top to hold it in place, use it around shrubs and trees with wood chips on top. The newspaper reduces the amount of other mulch I need and ... also recycles the newspaper. There is also some evidence that the newspaper supplies additional nuitrients too!

I lived in Iowa for awhilie, Iowa legislator passed laws saying towns had 10 years to reduce their landfill use by 50%! First thing a lot of towns did was separate out paper. Shredded, bundled newspaper was given to farmers with a little $$$ extra. In a couple of years demand went up, farmers found out newspaper soaked up more mess than straw when used with cattle, also degraded faster than straw out in the fields. So the cities gave away the newpaper bales but now without $$$$. Finally, enough farmers want paper that the cities can actually SELL the paper to them! Still costs the towns, not breaking even, but better. My town (Davenport) said that as they smoothed out the process costs were going down and hoped to start breaking even ... or even make a small profit ... not too far in the future.

Who would'a thought?]]> OldMorseNursery Forum http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?6,31,31#msg-31 Tue, 05 Feb 2008 13:59:08 -0800