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    <title>Phorum 5</title>
    <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/index.php</link>
    <description><![CDATA[]]></description>
    <language>EN</language>
    <pubDate>Wed, 21 Jul 2010 14:56:08 -0400</pubDate>
    <lastBuildDate>Wed, 21 Jul 2010 14:56:08 -0400</lastBuildDate>
    <category>Phorum 5</category>
    <generator>Phorum 5.1.25</generator>
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    <item>
      <title>[Morse Nursery] Re: Apple Tree Care</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,72,123#msg-123</link>
      <author>cmorse</author>
      <description><![CDATA[Good job Gerald on successfully starting up your deer apple orchard. Yes, an apple tree can have to many branches. You can prune off excess branches leaving about a 4&quot; spacing or so. Some trees will have STRONG central leaders and it sounds like you have a couple of these. It's ok to let them go to tops but it's also ok to cut the leader, this will quite the leader and encourage branching. Getting the trees out of the tubes and into fencing for good air movement around your apple trees will help keep away molds, mildew and fugal growth so I like that idea. I don't like the drain tile idea however, I would prefer to use Hardware cloth with about 1/4&quot; mesh. You could cut the tree tube down also. Drain tile doesn’t allow sunlight in and the dark damp environment grows mold, mildew and fungus easily. There is a white colored thin walled drainpipe that come of my customers have used and they report good results so maybe that would be an option. Thank you for the questions and keep up the good work Gerald.]]></description>
      <category>Morse Nursery</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,72,123#msg-123</guid>
      <pubDate>Wed, 21 Jul 2010 14:56:08 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[Morse Nursery] Re: Apple Tree Care</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,72,122#msg-122</link>
      <author>ridgeview72</author>
      <description><![CDATA[Antique Apple Trees I planted spring 2009 are doing great!  Planted 18 with only 2 casualties thus far (suspect a mole ate one of them off).  Of the 16 remaining trees I expect all but one to have grown out of 5ft tree shelters by fall.  A couple of the trees that grew out of shelters the first year that the deer munched on before I managed to get them fenced out have lots of branches...is it possible for the trees to branch out too much?<br />
<br />
A couple of the trees appear thus far to have a single stem...will I need to cut top of stem off this winter to encourage it to begin branching out or should I leave the single stem alone.<br />
<br />
I'm not at all familiar to any sort of pruning basics and/or how to properly care for apple trees.  Just beginning to get into planting apple trees for wildlife (deer) &amp; have lots to learn.  Any pointers on tree care you can give me would be a great help.<br />
<br />
Tree care taken thus far was to plant seedlings in tree shelters.  Have begun the process of creating a square fence using snow fencing around trees that have grown out of tree shelters.  Plan on leaving the tree shelters on trees for as long as possible to help protect from rodents, rabbits &amp; deer.  When trees begin to fill out the shelters I plan to remove the shelters at that time &amp; replace with some sort of vented plastic drainage tile.<br />
<br />
Have also began fertilizing the trees with 10-10-10 per your recommendations from a previous post.<br />
<br />
Thanks,<br />
<br />
Gerald]]></description>
      <category>Morse Nursery</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,72,122#msg-122</guid>
      <pubDate>Wed, 14 Jul 2010 15:29:39 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[Hybrid Oaks] Dwarf Chinquapin X Gambel Oak</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?5,121,121#msg-121</link>
      <author>Craig</author>
      <description><![CDATA[Hi Charlie,<br />
<br />
I planted those Dwarf Chinquapin &amp; Gambel Oaks I ordered this spring in a 20' X 20' two row planting.  <br />
<br />
In a few years when both get to bearing well I'm hopeful we can get some acorns that will be a cross of the two shrub Oak types.  <br />
<br />
In order to try to improve the odds of getting such a hybrid would it help to try to pick all the pollen stems of of one of the two types?  If yes would it be better to do this to one type over the other or won't it matter?]]></description>
      <category>Hybrid Oaks</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?5,121,121#msg-121</guid>
      <pubDate>Thu, 27 May 2010 00:51:13 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[Containerized Plants] Re: Air Root Pruned Seedlings can jump start acorn production</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?4,63,120#msg-120</link>
      <author>Craig</author>
      <description><![CDATA[I saw what you mean on the seedlings I bought this year.  While the root ball is small, there are dozens &amp; dozens of fine roots on each and every one.  Should also greatly help with first year survival.<br />
<br />
I was impressed enough with those root pruning nets the root system is in I've been doing some searches on the web regarding it.<br />
<br />
Found one place selling such nets &amp; some funny &quot;root trapper&quot; pots.<br />
<br />
Would planting seedlings started in your netting into a 5&quot; wide root trapper netting be worth the added time &amp; handling?  Would a larger size of netting be better instead?<br />
<br />
Got this idea to late to try with the seedlings I ordered this year, but interested in regards to maybe giving this a go with trees I order next year, or perhaps for a fall planting.]]></description>
      <category>Containerized Plants</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?4,63,120#msg-120</guid>
      <pubDate>Thu, 27 May 2010 00:28:23 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[Morse Nursery] Thumbs up!</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,118,119#msg-119</link>
      <author>Craig</author>
      <description><![CDATA[A little update,<br />
<br />
The Persimmons seem to be coming out of the frosting great!  All of them now have, or are, leafing out.  So no losses at all thus far.<br />
<br />
As we've had a good deal of rain here all the trees of all types are doing very well.]]></description>
      <category>Morse Nursery</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,118,119#msg-119</guid>
      <pubDate>Thu, 27 May 2010 00:20:16 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[Morse Nursery] Thumbs up!</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,118,118#msg-118</link>
      <author>Craig</author>
      <description><![CDATA[Having good luck overall with trees ordered.<br />
<br />
All started very well.  <br />
<br />
Persimmons<br />
Gambel Oak<br />
Dwarf Chinkopin Oaks<br />
2 types apples<br />
<br />
Only hitch is that due the warm weather I got the itch to get started...a bit soon.<br />
<br />
Had 2 nights of frost, not real heavy, but was enough to denude the persimmons while others just showed some spotting or few dead leaves.  So far only 1/3 of persimmons have restarted, but hope more will also in time.  Will remember to take more time on Persimmons in future years.<br />
<br />
Oaks already showing some new growth, and apples are growing surprisingly strongly.  The apple trees of both types are really jumping.<br />
<br />
ALL trees were in great shape when they arrived.  Thanks for the nice trees Charlie.]]></description>
      <category>Morse Nursery</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,118,118#msg-118</guid>
      <pubDate>Fri, 21 May 2010 10:17:54 -0400</pubDate>
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    <item>
      <title>[Morse Nursery] Re: Which would be best?</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,107,117#msg-117</link>
      <author>Craig</author>
      <description><![CDATA[Great site &amp; great talking to you! !<br />
 <br />
Very helpful as is your forum, I want to learn all I can on habitat work &amp; this is a great resource for that!  <br />
<br />
I tried to place my order tonight.  Could not get it to go.  I'm not Mr. Wizard on a puter so this may well be me &amp; not the site.<br />
<br />
I'll call it in this coming week. <br />
<br />
Wish I had more $$ for this year, but am really looking forward to spring &amp; planting the trees &amp; shrubs I've decided on with your help!<br />
<br />
Thanks again for your VERY helpful call &amp; look forward to talking to you when I call in the order.<br />
<br />
Craig]]></description>
      <category>Morse Nursery</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,107,117#msg-117</guid>
      <pubDate>Sat, 30 Jan 2010 23:31:35 -0500</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[Morse Nursery] Re: Which would be best?</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,107,116#msg-116</link>
      <author>cmorse</author>
      <description><![CDATA[Craig,<br />
I took your phone number home with me this weekend and then forgot to call. Taking work home with all the distractions is always a challenge for me. I will call you shortly and as always your welcome to call me anytime as well. <br />
Home phone is 269-979-2050<br />
Work phone is 269-979-4252<br />
E-mail address is cmorse7125@aol.com]]></description>
      <category>Morse Nursery</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,107,116#msg-116</guid>
      <pubDate>Mon, 25 Jan 2010 10:36:12 -0500</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[Morse Nursery] Re: Which would be best?</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,107,115#msg-115</link>
      <author>Craig</author>
      <description><![CDATA[Hello again,<br />
<br />
Glad to see all is working again, I got side tracked as well, so did not hold me up at all.<br />
<br />
Ready to figure out my order with you, left my number on your machine today.<br />
<br />
Hope to get a mix of Persimmons, apples and perhaps a few of Chestnuts or Oaks depending on how much I buy in the way of the fruit trees.  <br />
<br />
However I see you now have two types of Persimmons &amp; a new hybrid oak I'd not noticed before the Morse Oak.  Will give us a bit more to discuss...<br />
<br />
Look forward to talking to you.<br />
<br />
Craig]]></description>
      <category>Morse Nursery</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,107,115#msg-115</guid>
      <pubDate>Thu, 21 Jan 2010 15:35:33 -0500</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[Morse Nursery] Re: Which would be best?</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,107,114#msg-114</link>
      <author>cmorse</author>
      <description><![CDATA[Craig,<br />
Jackiana is Quercus alba(white oak) x bicolor(swamp white oak).<br />
Morse Nursery is a working farm and not a retail garden center so many times when you call I may be out on a tractor. If you don't get me just leave a message as I always return my calls. You can also call me on my cell phone 269-209-3594. I have a great selection of apple trees this year and some of the best large fruiting crabapple trees for whitetails you can find anywhere. Thanks again for the questions Craig and sorry for the late response, we've had some trouble with the website during a major upgrade and I think were back in business now.]]></description>
      <category>Morse Nursery</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,107,114#msg-114</guid>
      <pubDate>Wed, 16 Dec 2009 08:22:42 -0500</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[Hybrid Oaks] Re: Rare or unusual hybrids</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?5,108,113#msg-113</link>
      <author>cmorse</author>
      <description><![CDATA[Thanks for the questions Craig.]]></description>
      <category>Hybrid Oaks</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?5,108,113#msg-113</guid>
      <pubDate>Wed, 16 Dec 2009 08:12:01 -0500</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[Morse Nursery] Re: Which would be best?</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,107,112#msg-112</link>
      <author>Craig</author>
      <description><![CDATA[The Schuettes are one hybrid that is of interest, but not up on all the different ones possible.<br />
<br />
What is a Jackiana Oaks cross?  <br />
<br />
And the apple trees are another thing I'll need to discuss with you as I'd like to have a few that yield early, but the majority to ripen later or really late to help get the herd through the winter.  <br />
<br />
What hours are best for contacting you via phone?]]></description>
      <category>Morse Nursery</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,107,112#msg-112</guid>
      <pubDate>Tue, 01 Dec 2009 00:11:22 -0500</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[Hybrid Oaks] Re: Rare or unusual hybrids</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?5,108,111#msg-111</link>
      <author>Craig</author>
      <description><![CDATA[Ahhh, I did not know that.  <br />
<br />
I'll be in contact regarding trees for spring.  I've some pine, spruce &amp; shrubs started, but am interested in something to go into moister soil areas.]]></description>
      <category>Hybrid Oaks</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?5,108,111#msg-111</guid>
      <pubDate>Tue, 01 Dec 2009 00:06:03 -0500</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[Hybrid Oaks] Re: Rare or unusual hybrids</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?5,108,110#msg-110</link>
      <author>cmorse</author>
      <description><![CDATA[Yes, give me a call Craig and I will let you know what I have cooking for 2010. The cross Swamp Chestnut x Swamp White oak would not really be a good hybrid as both trees are considered by many as the same species. Some of the hybrids of Q. bicolor are Q. x white oak, Bur oak, English, English Fastigate, Chinkapin and Chestnut oak.]]></description>
      <category>Hybrid Oaks</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?5,108,110#msg-110</guid>
      <pubDate>Mon, 23 Nov 2009 20:01:47 -0500</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[Morse Nursery] Re: Which would be best?</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,107,109#msg-109</link>
      <author>cmorse</author>
      <description><![CDATA[Hi Craig,<br />
Let's start with Apple and Chestnut trees. These trees need a well drained area to grow and thrive. Any soils that gets flooded in the spring would be a poor choice, your dryer sites would be the best. We offer Collossal x Okei and chinese chestnut trees, you will need to plant both for cross pollination. Persimmon will tolerate the sites that can get wet in the spring but dries out and even poor soils. You want to plant the Persimmon in a group of about 8 trees minimum as these are wild natives 50/50 male and female plants. Both male and female trees are needed but only females will bear fruit. We offer a nice cold hardy strain that would work quite nicely for you. Hybrid oaks will be the easiest for you to plant as they are very tolerant of soil types and pH. Give me a call and I would be happy to go over the Oak selection. The wet sites I would recommend the following food producing plants, Quince, Ware, Schuettes, Swamp white, Jackiana Oaks. This will get you started in the right direction hopefully. Thank you for you question Craig.]]></description>
      <category>Morse Nursery</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,107,109#msg-109</guid>
      <pubDate>Mon, 23 Nov 2009 19:50:47 -0500</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[Hybrid Oaks] Rare or unusual hybrids</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?5,108,108#msg-108</link>
      <author>Craig</author>
      <description><![CDATA[In looking around I saw this topic in under the old forum.<br />
<br />
Do you still do this?<br />
<br />
Is a Swamp Chestnut X Swamp White oak possible, or have you done so already?<br />
<br />
If you have tried this cross did they show hybrid vigor?  <br />
<br />
I've a area in which I'm planting that in some wet springs can hold surface sheet water for a couple weeks.  I'd be very interested in buying some of these.]]></description>
      <category>Hybrid Oaks</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?5,108,108#msg-108</guid>
      <pubDate>Mon, 23 Nov 2009 15:18:05 -0500</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[Morse Nursery] Which would be best?</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,107,107#msg-107</link>
      <author>Craig</author>
      <description><![CDATA[I've property that I'm try'n to plant for wildlife. Deer is primary target though other small game &amp; song bird habitat matters to me as well. I'll do my best to fully describe my ground &amp; area I'm working with for you.<br />
<br />
Soil is slightly acidic, 6-6.5ph and is a loam/clay type, though I've one small area with some sand content as well.  Area is nearly flat, some can have surface water a couple inches deep in places for several days in spring of a wet year, while some is surface water free all year.  Prior to my starting this wildlife planting this ground was in crop production &amp; has grown wheat, oats, soybeans and corn.<br />
<br />
Last thing I can think to tell you about my area is that I've Red, Burr, White, Bebbs Oaks, Silver, Red &amp; Suger Maples, crabapples, wild plum, Hawthorn, Hickory, wild growing Black &amp; sour cherry, Basswood, Black Walnut, red cedar, red sumac &amp; a couple wild growing yellow apples (which the deer don't eat for some reason).  Also have other shrubs I can't identify.  All of these are just where nature put them, not planted by anyone.<br />
<br />
This property is in southeastern Mi, just 1/3 mile north of Metamora Ohio.<br />
<br />
Have so far established the following types.  White Pine, Norway Spruce, Silky Dogwood, Hazels &amp; Elderberry.  I also have a area of clover planted near the trees.<br />
<br />
I've also tried planting Beech without success.  <br />
<br />
I'm interested in try'n some Persimmons, Apple &amp; Chestnut/Oak hybrids next IF they'll grow &amp; fruit here.  What advice can you offer me for best selections for both the sometimes wet &amp; drier areas?<br />
 <br />
Thank you for your time.]]></description>
      <category>Morse Nursery</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,107,107#msg-107</guid>
      <pubDate>Mon, 23 Nov 2009 15:02:43 -0500</pubDate>
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    <item>
      <title>[Hybrid Oaks] Re: Brown spots</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?5,105,106#msg-106</link>
      <author>cmorse</author>
      <description><![CDATA[Infinity,<br />
Could be several things all of which are harmless. No need to spray at this time. Thanks for the question.<br />
Charlie]]></description>
      <category>Hybrid Oaks</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?5,105,106#msg-106</guid>
      <pubDate>Sun, 27 Sep 2009 16:25:25 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[Hybrid Oaks] Brown spots</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?5,105,105#msg-105</link>
      <author>Infinity</author>
      <description><![CDATA[We got some hybrid oaks planted this spring and about two months ago we noticed small brown dots on the leaves. Should we be concerned with this?  Is it a fungus that we should spray?]]></description>
      <category>Hybrid Oaks</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?5,105,105#msg-105</guid>
      <pubDate>Sun, 27 Sep 2009 12:41:31 -0400</pubDate>
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    <item>
      <title>[Morse Nursery] Re: persimmons</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,73,104#msg-104</link>
      <author>cmorse</author>
      <description><![CDATA[Well that's a fair question. I have planted hundreds of Meader Persimmon along with others and found that there were many genetic variations from seemingly the same tree. I had some trees with very small fruit, some that were not cold hardy and died back in the winter and yet others that produced fruit that the fruit were still green in late fall. I was trying to come up with a cold hardy persimmon that the fruit ripened in time for our northern climate. After much trial and error we ended up with one tree that produced fruit that ripened by November, was nice sized and the tree didn't freeze out in the winter. I then planted out a seed orchard at our farm and the resulting seedlings all exhibit similar characteristic as the parent tree. Seed from these trees are what we grow into what we call the Morse Persimmon. Calling it a Meader didn't make sense to me as the Morse Persimmon is obviously a hybrid, not to mention all the work I personally have into the trials, Morse Persimmon just reflects more accurately the right name for the product in my mind. I'm currently working on a cold hardy persimmon with male and female flowers on the same tree that's cold hardy, this plant will be available in a couple of years. The fruit is small but has all the attributes as the Morse Persimmon. Thanks for your question fredm, I hope it brings a little clarity for you and others.]]></description>
      <category>Morse Nursery</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,73,104#msg-104</guid>
      <pubDate>Mon, 20 Jul 2009 21:55:57 -0400</pubDate>
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    <item>
      <title>[Morse Nursery] Re: persimmons</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,73,103#msg-103</link>
      <author>fredm112</author>
      <description><![CDATA[Tell me this, if it is a seedling from a Meader, why is it a Morse Persimmon rather than the more obvious, Meader???  Just because you are doing the growing, is that reason to change the name and further complicate things????  Why else would you give it a different name, yours???]]></description>
      <category>Morse Nursery</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,73,103#msg-103</guid>
      <pubDate>Sat, 18 Jul 2009 22:04:16 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[Morse Nursery] Re: persimmons</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,73,102#msg-102</link>
      <author>cmorse</author>
      <description><![CDATA[Meader is a good choice and I don't know anything about Nikita, sorry. I grow seedlings from a Meader persimmon. The plant is called &quot;Morse Persimmon&quot; and is one of the best cold hardy persimmons I have worked with.]]></description>
      <category>Morse Nursery</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,73,102#msg-102</guid>
      <pubDate>Sat, 18 Jul 2009 20:43:42 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[Morse Nursery] Re: persimmons</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,73,101#msg-101</link>
      <author>fredm112</author>
      <description><![CDATA[I live in a zone 5-6 in central northern Oregon, what varieties would you suggest for my orchard?  I know that Meader and Nikita's Gift are good options but I know there must be more, can you suggest a few and do you sell them?]]></description>
      <category>Morse Nursery</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,73,101#msg-101</guid>
      <pubDate>Thu, 09 Jul 2009 22:53:40 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[Morse Nursery] Re: persimmons</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,73,100#msg-100</link>
      <author>fredm112</author>
      <description><![CDATA[I live in a zone 5-6 in central northern Oregon, what varieties would you suggest for my orchard?  I know that Meader and Nikita's Gift are good options but I know there must be more, can you suggest a few and do you sell them?]]></description>
      <category>Morse Nursery</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,73,100#msg-100</guid>
      <pubDate>Thu, 09 Jul 2009 22:53:40 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[Hybrid Oaks] Re: Seargants</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?5,96,99#msg-99</link>
      <author>cmorse</author>
      <description><![CDATA[Hunter,<br />
Sand is very challenging to get plant started, you must commit yourself to watering on a weekly basis for the first establishment year. No fertilizer will work if your pH is to low as the oaks can't uptake the nutrient. I like osmocote slow release with minors and Miracle grow. Fertilize in the spring to avoid hardening off problems in the fall. Thanks for the questions Hunter]]></description>
      <category>Hybrid Oaks</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?5,96,99#msg-99</guid>
      <pubDate>Thu, 11 Jun 2009 17:45:22 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[Hybrid Oaks] Re: Seargants</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?5,96,98#msg-98</link>
      <author>Hunter</author>
      <description><![CDATA[I planted them on a ridge where they get sunlight all day and it's pretty sandy where they're at.   I'm sure the PH is low.<br />
What fertilizer (ex.13-13-13) would you recommend??  What age before I can start fertlizing??]]></description>
      <category>Hybrid Oaks</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?5,96,98#msg-98</guid>
      <pubDate>Thu, 11 Jun 2009 09:49:14 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[Hybrid Oaks] Re: Seargants</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?5,96,97#msg-97</link>
      <author>cmorse</author>
      <description><![CDATA[Hunter,<br />
Well there are lots of variables with pH, soil fertility, and the amount of sunlight being the main factors. If all these factors are good we commonly see trees 12'-15' in five years. I would highly recommend a soil test as they are not expensive, they tell you what you need to know to make decisions on what to add to the soil to help plants grow to their full potential. Sandy soils usually benefit greatly with soil amendments. Thank you for the question!]]></description>
      <category>Hybrid Oaks</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?5,96,97#msg-97</guid>
      <pubDate>Wed, 10 Jun 2009 19:41:45 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[Hybrid Oaks] Seargants</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?5,96,96#msg-96</link>
      <author>Hunter</author>
      <description><![CDATA[On the seargant oaks,  I've planted them in sandy soil, fenced, and put mulch around.  How fast do these grow??  After 3 years how tall will they get to on an average?!?!<br />
<br />
THX]]></description>
      <category>Hybrid Oaks</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?5,96,96#msg-96</guid>
      <pubDate>Tue, 09 Jun 2009 16:34:25 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[Hybrid Oaks] Re: Oak Suggestions</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?5,92,95#msg-95</link>
      <author>Infinity</author>
      <description><![CDATA[Thanks for the reply, now we just have to figure out a plan for clearing some more areas.]]></description>
      <category>Hybrid Oaks</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?5,92,95#msg-95</guid>
      <pubDate>Tue, 07 Apr 2009 17:59:16 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[Hybrid Oaks] Re: soil type</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?5,61,94#msg-94</link>
      <author>cmorse</author>
      <description><![CDATA[Hi Matt,<br />
30' spacing is usually what I recommend as the closest spacing on oaks. There are some oaks like English Fastigate that could be planted at 21' but this would be to close for most naturalized settings. There is no spacing that would be considered to far apart on oaks as they are completely self pollinating. You will need to ask someone more familiar with mixed planting as I have no experience with conifers to give reliable advice. Sorry I couldn't be more help on the subject for Matt but like always thanks for the questions.]]></description>
      <category>Hybrid Oaks</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?5,61,94#msg-94</guid>
      <pubDate>Mon, 06 Apr 2009 21:00:51 -0400</pubDate>
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