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    <title>Morse Nursery</title>
    <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/list.php?1</link>
    <description><![CDATA[Sharing information learned from over 30 years of experience about plants, their care, soil requirements, successful establishment practices and beneficial relationship to wildlife is our primary purpose, however questions about products, root prune techniques and consulting services are welcome as well. ]]></description>
    <language>EN</language>
    <pubDate>Wed, 21 Jul 2010 14:56:08 -0400</pubDate>
    <lastBuildDate>Wed, 21 Jul 2010 14:56:08 -0400</lastBuildDate>
    <category>Morse Nursery</category>
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    <item>
      <title>Re: Apple Tree Care</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,72,123#msg-123</link>
      <author>cmorse</author>
      <description><![CDATA[Good job Gerald on successfully starting up your deer apple orchard. Yes, an apple tree can have to many branches. You can prune off excess branches leaving about a 4&quot; spacing or so. Some trees will have STRONG central leaders and it sounds like you have a couple of these. It's ok to let them go to tops but it's also ok to cut the leader, this will quite the leader and encourage branching. Getting the trees out of the tubes and into fencing for good air movement around your apple trees will help keep away molds, mildew and fugal growth so I like that idea. I don't like the drain tile idea however, I would prefer to use Hardware cloth with about 1/4&quot; mesh. You could cut the tree tube down also. Drain tile doesn’t allow sunlight in and the dark damp environment grows mold, mildew and fungus easily. There is a white colored thin walled drainpipe that come of my customers have used and they report good results so maybe that would be an option. Thank you for the questions and keep up the good work Gerald.]]></description>
      <category>Morse Nursery</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,72,123#msg-123</guid>
      <pubDate>Wed, 21 Jul 2010 14:56:08 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Re: Apple Tree Care</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,72,122#msg-122</link>
      <author>ridgeview72</author>
      <description><![CDATA[Antique Apple Trees I planted spring 2009 are doing great!  Planted 18 with only 2 casualties thus far (suspect a mole ate one of them off).  Of the 16 remaining trees I expect all but one to have grown out of 5ft tree shelters by fall.  A couple of the trees that grew out of shelters the first year that the deer munched on before I managed to get them fenced out have lots of branches...is it possible for the trees to branch out too much?<br />
<br />
A couple of the trees appear thus far to have a single stem...will I need to cut top of stem off this winter to encourage it to begin branching out or should I leave the single stem alone.<br />
<br />
I'm not at all familiar to any sort of pruning basics and/or how to properly care for apple trees.  Just beginning to get into planting apple trees for wildlife (deer) &amp; have lots to learn.  Any pointers on tree care you can give me would be a great help.<br />
<br />
Tree care taken thus far was to plant seedlings in tree shelters.  Have begun the process of creating a square fence using snow fencing around trees that have grown out of tree shelters.  Plan on leaving the tree shelters on trees for as long as possible to help protect from rodents, rabbits &amp; deer.  When trees begin to fill out the shelters I plan to remove the shelters at that time &amp; replace with some sort of vented plastic drainage tile.<br />
<br />
Have also began fertilizing the trees with 10-10-10 per your recommendations from a previous post.<br />
<br />
Thanks,<br />
<br />
Gerald]]></description>
      <category>Morse Nursery</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,72,122#msg-122</guid>
      <pubDate>Wed, 14 Jul 2010 15:29:39 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Thumbs up!</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,118,119#msg-119</link>
      <author>Craig</author>
      <description><![CDATA[A little update,<br />
<br />
The Persimmons seem to be coming out of the frosting great!  All of them now have, or are, leafing out.  So no losses at all thus far.<br />
<br />
As we've had a good deal of rain here all the trees of all types are doing very well.]]></description>
      <category>Morse Nursery</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,118,119#msg-119</guid>
      <pubDate>Thu, 27 May 2010 00:20:16 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Thumbs up!</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,118,118#msg-118</link>
      <author>Craig</author>
      <description><![CDATA[Having good luck overall with trees ordered.<br />
<br />
All started very well.  <br />
<br />
Persimmons<br />
Gambel Oak<br />
Dwarf Chinkopin Oaks<br />
2 types apples<br />
<br />
Only hitch is that due the warm weather I got the itch to get started...a bit soon.<br />
<br />
Had 2 nights of frost, not real heavy, but was enough to denude the persimmons while others just showed some spotting or few dead leaves.  So far only 1/3 of persimmons have restarted, but hope more will also in time.  Will remember to take more time on Persimmons in future years.<br />
<br />
Oaks already showing some new growth, and apples are growing surprisingly strongly.  The apple trees of both types are really jumping.<br />
<br />
ALL trees were in great shape when they arrived.  Thanks for the nice trees Charlie.]]></description>
      <category>Morse Nursery</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,118,118#msg-118</guid>
      <pubDate>Fri, 21 May 2010 10:17:54 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Re: Which would be best?</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,107,117#msg-117</link>
      <author>Craig</author>
      <description><![CDATA[Great site &amp; great talking to you! !<br />
 <br />
Very helpful as is your forum, I want to learn all I can on habitat work &amp; this is a great resource for that!  <br />
<br />
I tried to place my order tonight.  Could not get it to go.  I'm not Mr. Wizard on a puter so this may well be me &amp; not the site.<br />
<br />
I'll call it in this coming week. <br />
<br />
Wish I had more $$ for this year, but am really looking forward to spring &amp; planting the trees &amp; shrubs I've decided on with your help!<br />
<br />
Thanks again for your VERY helpful call &amp; look forward to talking to you when I call in the order.<br />
<br />
Craig]]></description>
      <category>Morse Nursery</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,107,117#msg-117</guid>
      <pubDate>Sat, 30 Jan 2010 23:31:35 -0500</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Re: Which would be best?</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,107,116#msg-116</link>
      <author>cmorse</author>
      <description><![CDATA[Craig,<br />
I took your phone number home with me this weekend and then forgot to call. Taking work home with all the distractions is always a challenge for me. I will call you shortly and as always your welcome to call me anytime as well. <br />
Home phone is 269-979-2050<br />
Work phone is 269-979-4252<br />
E-mail address is cmorse7125@aol.com]]></description>
      <category>Morse Nursery</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,107,116#msg-116</guid>
      <pubDate>Mon, 25 Jan 2010 10:36:12 -0500</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Re: Which would be best?</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,107,115#msg-115</link>
      <author>Craig</author>
      <description><![CDATA[Hello again,<br />
<br />
Glad to see all is working again, I got side tracked as well, so did not hold me up at all.<br />
<br />
Ready to figure out my order with you, left my number on your machine today.<br />
<br />
Hope to get a mix of Persimmons, apples and perhaps a few of Chestnuts or Oaks depending on how much I buy in the way of the fruit trees.  <br />
<br />
However I see you now have two types of Persimmons &amp; a new hybrid oak I'd not noticed before the Morse Oak.  Will give us a bit more to discuss...<br />
<br />
Look forward to talking to you.<br />
<br />
Craig]]></description>
      <category>Morse Nursery</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,107,115#msg-115</guid>
      <pubDate>Thu, 21 Jan 2010 15:35:33 -0500</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Re: Which would be best?</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,107,114#msg-114</link>
      <author>cmorse</author>
      <description><![CDATA[Craig,<br />
Jackiana is Quercus alba(white oak) x bicolor(swamp white oak).<br />
Morse Nursery is a working farm and not a retail garden center so many times when you call I may be out on a tractor. If you don't get me just leave a message as I always return my calls. You can also call me on my cell phone 269-209-3594. I have a great selection of apple trees this year and some of the best large fruiting crabapple trees for whitetails you can find anywhere. Thanks again for the questions Craig and sorry for the late response, we've had some trouble with the website during a major upgrade and I think were back in business now.]]></description>
      <category>Morse Nursery</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,107,114#msg-114</guid>
      <pubDate>Wed, 16 Dec 2009 08:22:42 -0500</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Re: Which would be best?</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,107,112#msg-112</link>
      <author>Craig</author>
      <description><![CDATA[The Schuettes are one hybrid that is of interest, but not up on all the different ones possible.<br />
<br />
What is a Jackiana Oaks cross?  <br />
<br />
And the apple trees are another thing I'll need to discuss with you as I'd like to have a few that yield early, but the majority to ripen later or really late to help get the herd through the winter.  <br />
<br />
What hours are best for contacting you via phone?]]></description>
      <category>Morse Nursery</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,107,112#msg-112</guid>
      <pubDate>Tue, 01 Dec 2009 00:11:22 -0500</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Re: Which would be best?</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,107,109#msg-109</link>
      <author>cmorse</author>
      <description><![CDATA[Hi Craig,<br />
Let's start with Apple and Chestnut trees. These trees need a well drained area to grow and thrive. Any soils that gets flooded in the spring would be a poor choice, your dryer sites would be the best. We offer Collossal x Okei and chinese chestnut trees, you will need to plant both for cross pollination. Persimmon will tolerate the sites that can get wet in the spring but dries out and even poor soils. You want to plant the Persimmon in a group of about 8 trees minimum as these are wild natives 50/50 male and female plants. Both male and female trees are needed but only females will bear fruit. We offer a nice cold hardy strain that would work quite nicely for you. Hybrid oaks will be the easiest for you to plant as they are very tolerant of soil types and pH. Give me a call and I would be happy to go over the Oak selection. The wet sites I would recommend the following food producing plants, Quince, Ware, Schuettes, Swamp white, Jackiana Oaks. This will get you started in the right direction hopefully. Thank you for you question Craig.]]></description>
      <category>Morse Nursery</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,107,109#msg-109</guid>
      <pubDate>Mon, 23 Nov 2009 19:50:47 -0500</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Which would be best?</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,107,107#msg-107</link>
      <author>Craig</author>
      <description><![CDATA[I've property that I'm try'n to plant for wildlife. Deer is primary target though other small game &amp; song bird habitat matters to me as well. I'll do my best to fully describe my ground &amp; area I'm working with for you.<br />
<br />
Soil is slightly acidic, 6-6.5ph and is a loam/clay type, though I've one small area with some sand content as well.  Area is nearly flat, some can have surface water a couple inches deep in places for several days in spring of a wet year, while some is surface water free all year.  Prior to my starting this wildlife planting this ground was in crop production &amp; has grown wheat, oats, soybeans and corn.<br />
<br />
Last thing I can think to tell you about my area is that I've Red, Burr, White, Bebbs Oaks, Silver, Red &amp; Suger Maples, crabapples, wild plum, Hawthorn, Hickory, wild growing Black &amp; sour cherry, Basswood, Black Walnut, red cedar, red sumac &amp; a couple wild growing yellow apples (which the deer don't eat for some reason).  Also have other shrubs I can't identify.  All of these are just where nature put them, not planted by anyone.<br />
<br />
This property is in southeastern Mi, just 1/3 mile north of Metamora Ohio.<br />
<br />
Have so far established the following types.  White Pine, Norway Spruce, Silky Dogwood, Hazels &amp; Elderberry.  I also have a area of clover planted near the trees.<br />
<br />
I've also tried planting Beech without success.  <br />
<br />
I'm interested in try'n some Persimmons, Apple &amp; Chestnut/Oak hybrids next IF they'll grow &amp; fruit here.  What advice can you offer me for best selections for both the sometimes wet &amp; drier areas?<br />
 <br />
Thank you for your time.]]></description>
      <category>Morse Nursery</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,107,107#msg-107</guid>
      <pubDate>Mon, 23 Nov 2009 15:02:43 -0500</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Re: persimmons</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,73,104#msg-104</link>
      <author>cmorse</author>
      <description><![CDATA[Well that's a fair question. I have planted hundreds of Meader Persimmon along with others and found that there were many genetic variations from seemingly the same tree. I had some trees with very small fruit, some that were not cold hardy and died back in the winter and yet others that produced fruit that the fruit were still green in late fall. I was trying to come up with a cold hardy persimmon that the fruit ripened in time for our northern climate. After much trial and error we ended up with one tree that produced fruit that ripened by November, was nice sized and the tree didn't freeze out in the winter. I then planted out a seed orchard at our farm and the resulting seedlings all exhibit similar characteristic as the parent tree. Seed from these trees are what we grow into what we call the Morse Persimmon. Calling it a Meader didn't make sense to me as the Morse Persimmon is obviously a hybrid, not to mention all the work I personally have into the trials, Morse Persimmon just reflects more accurately the right name for the product in my mind. I'm currently working on a cold hardy persimmon with male and female flowers on the same tree that's cold hardy, this plant will be available in a couple of years. The fruit is small but has all the attributes as the Morse Persimmon. Thanks for your question fredm, I hope it brings a little clarity for you and others.]]></description>
      <category>Morse Nursery</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,73,104#msg-104</guid>
      <pubDate>Mon, 20 Jul 2009 21:55:57 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Re: persimmons</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,73,103#msg-103</link>
      <author>fredm112</author>
      <description><![CDATA[Tell me this, if it is a seedling from a Meader, why is it a Morse Persimmon rather than the more obvious, Meader???  Just because you are doing the growing, is that reason to change the name and further complicate things????  Why else would you give it a different name, yours???]]></description>
      <category>Morse Nursery</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,73,103#msg-103</guid>
      <pubDate>Sat, 18 Jul 2009 22:04:16 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Re: persimmons</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,73,102#msg-102</link>
      <author>cmorse</author>
      <description><![CDATA[Meader is a good choice and I don't know anything about Nikita, sorry. I grow seedlings from a Meader persimmon. The plant is called &quot;Morse Persimmon&quot; and is one of the best cold hardy persimmons I have worked with.]]></description>
      <category>Morse Nursery</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,73,102#msg-102</guid>
      <pubDate>Sat, 18 Jul 2009 20:43:42 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Re: persimmons</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,73,101#msg-101</link>
      <author>fredm112</author>
      <description><![CDATA[I live in a zone 5-6 in central northern Oregon, what varieties would you suggest for my orchard?  I know that Meader and Nikita's Gift are good options but I know there must be more, can you suggest a few and do you sell them?]]></description>
      <category>Morse Nursery</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,73,101#msg-101</guid>
      <pubDate>Thu, 09 Jul 2009 22:53:40 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Re: persimmons</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,73,100#msg-100</link>
      <author>fredm112</author>
      <description><![CDATA[I live in a zone 5-6 in central northern Oregon, what varieties would you suggest for my orchard?  I know that Meader and Nikita's Gift are good options but I know there must be more, can you suggest a few and do you sell them?]]></description>
      <category>Morse Nursery</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,73,100#msg-100</guid>
      <pubDate>Thu, 09 Jul 2009 22:53:40 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Re: Apple Tree Care</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,72,82#msg-82</link>
      <author>cmorse</author>
      <description><![CDATA[PAhunter,<br />
I use a balanced fertilizer like 10-10-10 for the first 5 years then switch over to just nitrogen, either 46-0-0 or 34-0-0.]]></description>
      <category>Morse Nursery</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,72,82#msg-82</guid>
      <pubDate>Wed, 14 Jan 2009 16:30:59 -0500</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Re: persimmons</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,73,81#msg-81</link>
      <author>cmorse</author>
      <description><![CDATA[PAhunter,<br />
I have Little Delicious that sets fruit in filtered light, no direct sunlight ever that I would recommend.]]></description>
      <category>Morse Nursery</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,73,81#msg-81</guid>
      <pubDate>Wed, 14 Jan 2009 16:28:05 -0500</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Re: Apple Tree Care</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,72,80#msg-80</link>
      <author>PA hunter</author>
      <description><![CDATA[what kind of fertilizer 10-10-10?]]></description>
      <category>Morse Nursery</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,72,80#msg-80</guid>
      <pubDate>Tue, 13 Jan 2009 07:42:23 -0500</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Re: persimmons</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,73,79#msg-79</link>
      <author>PA hunter</author>
      <description><![CDATA[thanks for the info, its been puzzling,  do u carry a fruit tree that will produce in partial shade, i would like to put some trees next to the logging roads on the property]]></description>
      <category>Morse Nursery</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,73,79#msg-79</guid>
      <pubDate>Tue, 13 Jan 2009 07:40:42 -0500</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Re: persimmons</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,73,78#msg-78</link>
      <author>cmorse</author>
      <description><![CDATA[PAhunter,<br />
If the plants are seemingly stuck and were bare root plants when you planted them I would think there are two things going on here. Most bare root plants are in transplant shock when you get them. There is an old farmers saying about bare root plants that goes like this. They sleep the first year, creep the second year and leap the third year. It can take three years to recover from being dug out of the ground before they start growing again, so I definitely think this is going on with the plants to some degree. Also you need to check the pH as if it is to low 5.5 or high 7.5 the plants can't uptake nutrients and this will prevent the plants from growing. If the pH were fine I would expect the trees that haven't grown to take off this year in the spring. If the pH is a problem you will need to adjust before you will see the plant respond.]]></description>
      <category>Morse Nursery</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,73,78#msg-78</guid>
      <pubDate>Mon, 12 Jan 2009 16:10:04 -0500</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Re: persimmons</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,73,77#msg-77</link>
      <author>PA hunter</author>
      <description><![CDATA[they were bare root and they do not have winter die back they are stuck at the size i planted them]]></description>
      <category>Morse Nursery</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,73,77#msg-77</guid>
      <pubDate>Mon, 12 Jan 2009 07:48:36 -0500</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Re: persimmons</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,73,76#msg-76</link>
      <author>cmorse</author>
      <description><![CDATA[Well a number of things could have contributed to the death of the plants so I won't try to guess on that part of the question but the ones that are alive but haven't grown we can focus on. When you say they haven't grown do you mean that the trees keep dying back every winter and aren't growing because of that or do you mean that the trees are not growing at all, just stuck at the size they were when you planted them 3-4 years ago. Sorry for all the questions but the answers you give will help me formulate a possible recommendation. One last question PAHunter is did you purchase these trees as bare root trees, not in containers with the soil around their roots?]]></description>
      <category>Morse Nursery</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,73,76#msg-76</guid>
      <pubDate>Sat, 10 Jan 2009 08:58:09 -0500</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Re: persimmons</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,73,75#msg-75</link>
      <author>PA hunter</author>
      <description><![CDATA[the trees died during the growing season and the survivors haven't grown at all]]></description>
      <category>Morse Nursery</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,73,75#msg-75</guid>
      <pubDate>Fri, 09 Jan 2009 14:08:00 -0500</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Re: persimmons</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,73,74#msg-74</link>
      <author>cmorse</author>
      <description><![CDATA[Well your zone 6 and should be able to grow Persimmon without any problem if your growing common persimmon. Some strains are best suited for southern climates meaning zone 7,8 or 9 and these will just freeze out every winter here in the north. Being you clear-cut this area the soil might be acidic. Go to Lowe's, Menards or Home Depot and buy a pH tester, there cheap. Take a soil sample and test it. Raise the pH to about 6.5 by adding lime. Use pelletized lime, as this will change the pH quickly. Did the trees that died, die after winter or during the growing season?]]></description>
      <category>Morse Nursery</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,73,74#msg-74</guid>
      <pubDate>Fri, 09 Jan 2009 11:40:20 -0500</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>persimmons</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,73,73#msg-73</link>
      <author>PA hunter</author>
      <description><![CDATA[i have a camp in area code 16239 and would like to grow persimmons, the ones i have planted 3-4 years ago are either dead or are still only 1 foot tall and have grown very little, can i add fertilizer (when, what kind) ammend the soil  etc to get persimmons to grow , ? What types of growing conditions do they perfer. The soil is well drained and was recently clear-cut 6 years ago]]></description>
      <category>Morse Nursery</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,73,73#msg-73</guid>
      <pubDate>Thu, 08 Jan 2009 13:16:29 -0500</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Apple Tree Care</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,72,72#msg-72</link>
      <author>cmorse</author>
      <description><![CDATA[Apple tree care can be reduced if they are planted in full sun with good air movement around the trees. Pruning should be done while there is snow on the ground as open wounds attract insects that carry diesese. Fertilizing should be done in the spring of the year at the rate of 1/4 pound for every year the tree is old with a  maximum of 2 pounds.]]></description>
      <category>Morse Nursery</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,72,72#msg-72</guid>
      <pubDate>Wed, 07 Jan 2009 13:43:22 -0500</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Re: New member, new customer in the spring, questions</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,68,69#msg-69</link>
      <author>cmorse</author>
      <description><![CDATA[Ted,<br />
I have a cold hardy strain of Persimmon but you’re in a fringe zone. I would plant some for trials but I wouldn't invest in a whole orchard. My cold hardy strains fruit has time to fully ripen here in Michigan and have not shown any cold related issues. Our most popular apple tree package is the Three Times a Charm TTC. If you purchase the oldest ones we have (Three Year Olds) you can see fruit in one year in most cases. Our Thicket Crab that grows as a bush will attain 6-8 feet in usually 3 years and 5-6 feet in width in 5 or so years. Some trees and bushes are self-pollinating meaning they don't need other pollinators. Apple trees in general benefit from at least one other pollinator with two being best for good fruit sets.]]></description>
      <category>Morse Nursery</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,68,69#msg-69</guid>
      <pubDate>Mon, 10 Nov 2008 15:48:04 -0500</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>New member, new customer in the spring, questions</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,68,68#msg-68</link>
      <author>RubyCreekTed</author>
      <description><![CDATA[Hi All and Hi Charley,<br />
<br />
I have read about Morse Nursery in The Michigan Sportsman's forum and plan to buy some trees and shrubs in the spring.  I want to plant them as deer habitat and borders and screens. I have some questions.  I live in Ruby Creek MI which is about 8 miles north of Walkerville or 10 miles west and south of Baldwin.<br />
<br />
1/ Is permisson hardy up here?  I hear a lot about this further south.<br />
<br />
2/ What apple tree is recommended for quickest growth and fruit production?  How many years to fruiting?<br />
<br />
3/  The busk crabapples, How long to fruiting and How long to a height of maybe 8 feet?  How wide do they typically spread in say 5 years?<br />
<br />
4/  What is a good mix of trees and shrubs for pollination?<br />
<br />
Thanks for now.... RubyCreekTed]]></description>
      <category>Morse Nursery</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,68,68#msg-68</guid>
      <pubDate>Sat, 08 Nov 2008 15:27:14 -0500</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Re: Quality Trees</title>
      <link>http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,64,66#msg-66</link>
      <author>cmorse</author>
      <description><![CDATA[Thank you Nathanw for the positive feedback. We are a family owned two generations old nursery, meaning it's usually family members taking your order and packing it for shipment. It would be great if all our customers posted similar results as this is our hope and intentions.]]></description>
      <category>Morse Nursery</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.morsenursery.com/phorum/read.php?1,64,66#msg-66</guid>
      <pubDate>Sun, 26 Oct 2008 15:20:22 -0400</pubDate>
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